Monday 10 February 2014

Why Getting Lost Caused Me to Absolutely Panic- A Fear Realized in France

 
Why Getting Lost Caused Me to Absolutely Panic- A Fear Realized in France      
If you’re only here to look at stories about Ireland, this one will disappoint. This story is mostly about France. If instead you’re reading this because I am a bit silly, then by all means read on. This is one of the more funny travel stories, though it started out as one of my most frightening.
 As I’m sure you’ve noticed most of what concerns me most about living in Ireland is the driving. Part of this stems from my long held fear of getting lost. What if you can’t find your way back? What if you’re wandering around for hours? What if you run out of gas wandering around for hours?! All of these thoughts tend to send me into panic attacks and general mayhem ensues. I have a number of traumatic stories from my childhood as to why this is such a fear, but the most pertinent involves my first visit to a different country by myself. As a PhD student I was given the awesome opportunity to go to a research conference in France and present my research. Way cool, right?  Well, let’s just start with my limited French, I can say yes, no, thank you, and that is about it. If I can read it I can usually decipher what it is, but I took Spanish and so for all intents and purposes my French is nil. Well, we can now add “Baggage verts s'il vous plaît?” to my list because on the way over, I made the connection in Brussels but my bags did not. One reason I made it through Brussels was because of a fantastic gadget my mom got me before I left. Back before they were popular, my mom found a battery powered cell phone charger which I thought was brilliant.  It took 1 AA batteries, was silver and bullet shaped, which while going through customs/security, the agent mistook for an item of… well let’s just say he thought it was of a more personal nature than a cell phone charger. So as he pulled it out of my bag, he started blushing which in turn made my eyes bug out of my head when I realized what he thought it was and so I started miming and saying, “Oh, no no no!! It’s for a PHONE. You know, PHONE???” As if shouting and pantomiming a phone made it better, well as soon as he pulled that out he shoved everything else back in the bag and shushed me on my way. So, long lines in airport? Don’t worry ladies, just bring a phallic cell phone charger and all will be well, or you’ll just be so embarrassed you’ll forget all about the previous wait.
I was so surprised I found the exact model!! This is it!
            After breezing through security (thank you again mom!), I arrived in Marseilles France but my bags did not make it (this is where “Baggage verts s'il vous plaît?” comes into play because I had green bags). No problem! I packed a spare outfit just in case, so let’s see… Pants, shirt, dress shoes… oh shit! No undergarments or socks! There are lots of things I’m willing to do in the name of science, but wearing 2 day old underwear is NOT one of them! So after a wild cab ride to my hotel and a quick assessment of what I needed, I went down to the front desk to see if I could get directions to a store to buy underwear and socks. This is how the conversation went:

ME: Poly voo engles? (I left the phonetics in just in case you had any misconceptions about my lack of French)
Desk receptionist: Non-(imagine it with a haughty French accent. Now I’m not saying all French are haughty, just this one in particular.)
ME: Shit (under my breath) …OK, I. NEED. UNDERWEAR (pulled a bit of my waistband out of my pants). AND, SOCKS (pulling up the hem of my pants). LOST BAGS. (Sadly I fell prey to if you can’t speak the language speak louder and mime wildly what you want).
Desk receptionist: (Wrinkles her nose at me) Ici. (Hands me a map and points me out the door)
ME: THANK YOU!

Out the door I went on my first adventure! And as I looked down at the map I noticed something funny, well a lot of funny things… She gave me a map in GERMAN! Ok, so in the words of my high school voice teacher, “With that blond hair, light eyes, and broad shoulders, you just LOOK German!” which is why I learned to sing German songs first, but COME ON! My German is reserved for really bad poetry so I can tell you that you’re as beautiful as a flower, so lovely and gay, but I can’t navigate in it! And I spoke to you in ENGLISH. Well, do what you can with what you have, right? So I kept walking the direction she pointed and I start seeing more and more graffiti, and things are looking dirtier and dirtier… I’m thinking this may not be the right way… So I see some little old ladies and repeat a similar conversation with them as I had with the receptionist. They didn’t speak English either, but they did usher me on a bus when I showed them the map and pointed to where the bitchy desk woman said I could get my necessities. Eventually someone I tried to speak to on the bus who seemed to know where I was wanting to go, ushered me off the bus and I found the French version of Wal-greens (Sam McCulley’s here in Ireland), and was able to get my necessities. Alright! I’m ready to go back to the hotel! Oh hell, where am I???? One thing I found was that people were not very helpful when they realized I didn’t speak French so 6 hours, lunch with some American navy guys who only knew where their ship was, one traumatic subway ride, and 2 tearful phone calls to Matt later (time changes don’t exist when you’re jet lagged and lost, and all you wanted was some socks, underwear, and a cute purse!)  I met a group of people going to my hotel and followed them back. Now, what I forgot was that I probably could have just gotten a cab back to the hotel, but since I was so panicked all I could think of was how lost I was and how this was totally not how I expected my adventures to go! Screw the adventure I just wanted to get back to my room and go to bed! In my defense during the tearful phone calls, Matt didn’t recommend a cab either, and so I can only chalk that up to cabs not really ever being much of an option where I’m from. Yes you can get them, but we never did so the thought never even dawned on me.  So this is the basis for my fear of getting lost in a new country.  Once I arrived back at the hotel I decided it was time for dinner and bed. So I went to the restaurant got some questionable Indian food (at the time I had never eaten Indian so this perplexed me, I know I’m sheltered) and then asked for something to drink. The guy asked what I wanted and I answered in one of the only drinks I knew would be the same in any language. VODKA. The man looks at me, Vodka? Yes, du. Oh and 7 up. I think that second order reassured him I wasn’t a raging alcoholic, though I’m not totally sure.  He was also kind enough to provide me with a converter to use until my bags arrived. So I trudged upstairs, ate my questionable Indian food, drank my vodka and 7up, checked my e-mail and passed out until the next day when things started getting better and continued to do so until I left nearly a week later. As for my bags, they showed up late on day 2 so all was well.  That is until I learned never to climb a mountain in flip-flops, but that was my own fault not Frances. On a side note some of the most delicious chocolate I've ever had came from Puyricard chocolates, they were paired with one of the most delightful people I've met. He was the chocolatier for the shop and was very kind to me and some ladies from the CDC, so it seems that I met every awful person in the city on my first day. Though not everyone was as kind as the chocolatier, they were at least nicer than those I met on the first day.
Looking down on the city of Marseilles from the top of Basilica Notre-Dame de la Garde's hill/mountain
The harbor at Marseilles
Fresh seafood!! Not something I saw very often in Missouri.
As much as I wanted one of each of these, I was good and just took a picture.
Notre-Dame de la Garde
The inside of the basilica.
The other cathedral in town. Didn't get to see this one inside, just from afar.
One of Napoleon's palaces but he never visited it
One of the many statues in the city. This became a landmark for me traveling back and forth to the conference.
And a sea shell cow!
            When you come to Ireland you must understand, YOU WILL GET LOST… A LOT. This is a totally different experience than what I had in France. Whereas the people there are not really willing to help you, over here everyone wants to be helpful! More than once I’ve been in the car on the side of the road looking quite puzzled at a map or my phone and a stranger has pulled over to ask if I’m OK and if I needed help getting where I was going. More often than not, they will go out of their way and lead you to where you need to go if it’s close. If not they’re more than happy to give directions.

            Sometimes these directions are very well intentioned but not always helpful. I kid you not, this is an actual conversation I had with someone in Portlaoise (port-leesh):

ME: Excuse me, do you know where the Teagasc (Sha-gask) office is?
THEM: Ah sure, it’s very close to where the old Dunnes store used to be.
ME: Wonderful! How do I get there?
THEM: Go to where the old Dunnes store used to be and it’s right on that corner.
This is the Dunnes store closest to our house. It's a lovely shop that has a bit of everything. Think of it as a baby target greatland without the office supplies.
          I am clearly not a local (even though I now gleefully tell people I’m from Cork when they ask, tee hee!) but I apparently should have known where the Dunnes store used to be. After some puzzled looks, they told me to go out, make a right, then another right and its up on the corner. 2 rights and a left and a roundabout later, there it was! Half the time the GPS (Sat Nav here) has no idea where things are either, so you can’t rely on that. And then there’s google Maps… A bit better at location but you can’t trust it on time estimation to save your life. This is such a big thing that I’ll be writing a whole blog post on how you can’t trust Google Maps or your GPS. But so long as you're not trying to get somewhere to meet people or have a meeting, getting lost can be fantastic. Here are a few places we've stumbled upon while lost:
Ballybeg priory
Kanturk Castle
Barryscourt Castle

Lismore Castle
The Muskery hounds having a day out for their puppy show!


            The moral of the story for this post is that I’m not afraid of getting lost any more. In fact I look at it more as an adventure than something to be feared because usually I get to meet fun people and have a giggle with them about how silly I am for getting so lost. I also now have a GPS with a “go home” button which means if I ever get REALLY lost I can always make it home.  Life is grand in Ireland and if you come visit, enjoy every wrong turn.

Sunday 2 February 2014

Bearing the Ring of Beara- How the new car got it's first dent



            One of the best things about living in a place is living your life like a tourist. We did a bit of this when we first moved to Maryland because we were so close to DC, Pennsylvania, Virginia, and other more specific places of interest but then we got busy with the horses and weekends became a different sort of exploration, how to still try to do stuff when you have reverse ATM machines (AKA horses, money goes in, but never comes back out). I wouldn’t trade that for anything because no matter how much I like to wander around looking at things I love my horse and seeing things between my horse’s ears much better. I hold a firm yet odd belief that scenery is so much better if there are a nice pair of horse ears in the picture, many of my horsey friend agree and in fact there is a whole Facebook page devoted to this!

See how much better these are with Bailey's horse ears in them? Just a couple of pictures from our trip back home to Missouri
            With no horses to care for here in Ireland we get to go on weekend adventures. We’ve learned that Ireland is pretty dog friendly so most of the time we have the option to take “the girls” with us and will probably take advantage of this more this year. It is also nice because it really doesn’t get too hot here so I don’t have to worry about dogs overheating in the car if we have to step out for a bit. Right now, it’s hunting season so Saturdays are devoted to the chase, but that always leaves Sundays! Often Matt chooses something to do or see on Sunday and off we go for a drive, a visit, or just a good wander. There really is so much to see in this country, which is one reason we haven’t hopped over to “The continent” AKA Continental Europe.  One of the things to see/do is take a drive around the Rings. There are LOTS of Rings around Ireland, though the most famous is the Ring of Kerry. So, what is a ring? From what I can gather, it’s a scenic drive around the coast of one of the jutting pieces of land off Ireland.  We drove around the Ring of Kerry during our honeymoon and managed to only get hit by one bus. Yes, I said hit by a bus, but perhaps “clipped” is a better description. Side mirrors on many of the cars here are spring loaded both directions so when a bus kisses the side of your teeny tiny car on a teeny tinier road, the mirror snaps in so it doesn’t rip off. It happens, and usually scares the bejeezus out of me, but I’m getting better.
The ring of Kerry!
            Since the Ring of Beara (south of the Ring of Kerry) is a lesser known ring, the traffic isn’t as bad. So that coupled with the fact that we were driving it in the off season meant that we had most of the ring to ourselves. The first time we did the ring we took Healy’s Pass which takes you over mountains half way through the ring and then plonks you down on the other side so it’s like a mini ring. Thinking we may have missed an opportunity to see some of the best parts of this ring, Matt suggested we drive it a second time. Matt likes these sort of things, driving aimlessly around a country side looking at the natural wonders of the world, and sometimes the interesting man made things along the way. I’m usually game for this so long as I don’t have to be in the driver’s seat because rather than enjoying the majestic beauty around me, I’m white knuckled on the steering wheel trying not to pass out as I hyperventilate about the sheer drop offs you sometimes come across and panicking thinking about what we would do if we meet another car on this road that is about the width of a twig. But all of this changes with Matt at the wheel. Don’t get me wrong, I still freak out a bit when we do inevitably meet a car on the narrowest part of a road, but since he’s driving I can look at the scenery or if it gets too scary, I can read a book or type up part of my next blog post on my laptop. 
The smaller yet just as beautiful Ring of Beara
            On our first trip around the ring, we had just gotten our replacement car after the first one got totaled. It’s a pretty silver Nissan note with enough room for 4 and a load of shopping bags, or 2 dogs. Just as with the first two cars, I was the one who found it and after a bit of haggling I got it for the price I wanted! The car fit all of my criteria, automatic (we’ll get to my skills with a Manual transmission later), small enough I’m comfortable driving it on narrow roads yet big enough Matt didn’t look like a bear on a tricycle driving it, no big dents or scratches, within the price range, and it came with a Padre Pio sticker on the windshield to keep us safe while we drove. Who could ask for anything more?  So off we go in the new car!
            As I mentioned the first trip we took Healy’s pass. This is great! It’s a bit of a windy road up into the mountains, but you also get some great coastal views before you head up the mountain and on the way back down. There is a wonderful little shop at the top with super cheap souvenirs run by a beef farmer who is very friendly. If it’s warm, you can even get some ice cream in the shop! I even got to pet a roadside sheep. It did have a number of areas that are super skinny and you have to go slower than the speed limit but the views are spectacular. The only hic-up on this trip was when Matt crashed the car. Yep you read that right, he crashed the new car. He pulled to the side of the road and unknowingly tried to run over a large rock. The rock was surrounded by some lovely tall grass and so when he hit the gas he smushed the bottom part of the bumper of my new car. Hmmm, I’m seeing a trend with us and cars in Ireland. Luckily the only thing that happened was it lowed the clearance of the car by 2-3 inches and dented the front in a bit, nothing that impaired driving. The lowering part turned out to be a much worse thing than we thought because many Irish roads have bumps, dips, and potholes that eat cars. When your car has a big dent in the front it scrapes every time you go over the bumps eventually it starts to rip the bumper off and you have to kick it back in place every once in a while. Eh, it could be worse…
Tree and mountain in the distance. I got a bit artsy with this photo, but I think it definitely worked out!
The sea!!!! Look how pretty!
One of many lovely waterfalls we saw while out and about.
SHEEP!!!! I LOVE random sheep on the side of the road! These guys were not impressed with my sheep whispering skills and wouldn't let me get close, but they did let me snap this cute picture of them!

Looking down from the top of Healy's pass to the County Cork side. See that speck in the road closest to the bottom? Yep, that's a crazy runner! This guy was RUNNING up a mountain! I was tres impressed, and tired just looking at him, so I got an ice cream bar and cheered him on from the top by my car.

Another view of the twisty turny roads to get up to Healy's pass
At the top of the pass looking down into County Kerry. Part of the Ring of Beara is in Cork and the other is in Kerry, both sides are beautiful in their own ways.
Yes, I know that's my large bum (perhaps a smidge larger than usual after the Ice Cream...), but the important part of this picture is I AM PETTING A SHEEP! My sheep whispering skills paid off! She actually let me pet her! OK fine, I'm bribing her with a bit of sweet had in the car, but bribery is always fair game when it comes to animals and children!
The sea, Kerry side
A waterfall in Kerry, I got a bit artsy with as well. It was a gorgeous day for the most part with only sprinkles, so visibility was amazing!

The mountains on the Kerry side

Oh look! A random church! Time for some exploring...
Very cool old church we saw on the way home.
            The second time we decided to go the whole way around but starting on the opposite side of the ring because that was the side we skipped going through Healy’s pass. What to say about this… well it was an adventure. We had to reverse down some roads because they actually were too narrow to fit two cars on, I won’t say I had a full panic attack, but there was a lot of cursing under my breath and quick draws of breath and we nearly fell off the side of the road once or twice. The best part about this time around was that we brought the dogs along for the trip and stopped off at The Peoples Millennium forest in Rossacaroo na loo, Co. Kerry. What a gorgeous place to walk and enjoy nature! Marble was thrilled to be out the car and Gypsy loved the hour of wandering around the forest and sniffing all the new stuff.




 The views were great, but half way through I was ready to be done. It was supposed to take a few hours, it took 6.  Marble was tired of being in the car, the novelty of it all had worn off Gypsy who was now snoring in the back seat, and I was ready to be somewhere other than a car.  So if you decide to come down to the Ring of Beara, take Healy’s pass and make it a half day trip rather than a full day.   

Sun streaming through the clouds on this lovely drive.
A beautiful rainbow over the mountains around the Ring of Beara.
Lovely ruined house near the mountains.

Looking out over the water on a spectacular day. All we needed was a picnic basket (or a hampers as they say over here) and a nice bottle of wine to make this perfect!
Matthew and Marble taking a stroll towards the water.

Marble exploring the landscape
Loved the sound of the waves crashing on the rocks!
The whole family on the coast!
A lovely church found on the other side of the ring, closest to the Cork side of the Ring

Beautiful cross through the ruins of the Kilcatherine church


Random tower found around the Ring of Beara. I REALLY want to get there sometime.


The views are great no matter which way you do it, but I think I really liked the first trip around more than the second, that is so long as your husband doesn’t crash your new car.
Even though she's a bit smushed up in the front on the bottom, (the side in the shadow) but she still looks good parked in the rugged west of Cork.
For more photos or if you'd like to buy any of the ones you've seen, you can check out my website!
http://tjlg.smugmug.com/The-Ring-of-Beara/