Friday 6 December 2013

The Aran Islands



The Aran Islands are a very interesting part of Ireland. The topography is very different and you will marvel how people were able to live there so long ago and continue to do so. Also, this is where the best sweaters come from, so a must visit if you need a good sweater! We decided we’d only see the big island and we could do it in one day. Tip to travelers: If you can stay overnight or a couple nights at the island and travel back the next evening, do it. It is well worth it to spend a bit more time than we did, this was my biggest regret of our visit. The bad news is that there are only 2 ways to get there, tiny plane ($$$) or something resembling a cargo ship outfitted with airplane seats. We went with the boat because hey, why not and it was MUCH cheaper. I'm pretty sure I learned what clothes feel like in a washing machine on that trip. The water was "a bit choppy" according to the captain, but for me I was pretty sure a category 5 storm had just rolled in and we were all going to die. Most of my time on boats has been on lakes where the largest swell you see is a couple feet high and really only acts as a speed bump on your way back to the dock, but I have never gotten motion sick or sea sick... Ok there was that one time my brother took me out on his boat off the cost of Carolina and I got a bit green but that had more to do with the 32 oz of neon blue alcohol consumed the night before than the rocking of the ocean. Or it may have been induced by his assurance that he was on good terms with the towing guys because they'd had to bring him back to the harbor so often, but never mind all that, I’d take a million loop-de-loops on a roller coaster or carnival ride any day over riding in the belly of this so called Ferry! 
Looking back it really wasn't that bad, I had probably just stuffed myself too much at breakfast and getting tossed around and lurched sideways in a tiny seat when you’re really full usually results in being forcefully less full, much to the chagrin of those around you. Luckily no such thing happened though it was a close call more than once. But I would grit through it because I had been promised pony carts when we arrived. I have no pictures of our voyage because I was too busy trying not to share my full Irish breakfast with the rest of the passengers to do anything but do some deep breathing and toss a few prayers up to anyone who was listening. After what felt like hours but was more like an 75 minutes we were docked and ready to depart. Good bye boat from hell, pony carts here I come!!!! 
Seriously, the water was NOT this calm crossing between Galway and the islands! Pretty sure whoever I was praying to had a great sense of humor to make it look so calm when I can finally take a picture. Thanks a lot Buddy!
Wait, where are the pony carts?!?!?! The island inhabitants were holding a memorial mass for a young lady who had passed away last year and all the pony cart drivers were at the mass. Although I was feeling a bit sorry for myself I was very impressed that everyone on the island was so close that they all attended the mass for the young lady. So rather than curse the cart drivers I said a little prayer for the young lady in question and went to find a bus to take us around. Bus drivers over there are a bit shady, they all line up and pitch their wares and you choose which bus to get on. I chose poorly. After 10 minutes on the bus I could tell our driver was clearly deranged as he zipped quickly around roads so narrow they’d make super models suck in their non-existent tummies hoping it would help the bus squeeze through! After surviving the boat ride I’d surely end up dying in a fiery crash on this desolate island, but trust and awe won out.First stop was a little overlook where we could see seals basking. They were so darn cute!!! But not as cute as the horse I got to snuggle with before taking seal pictures.
Seals enjoying a restful day
No pony carts, but I found the pony!
Next stop was a very old ring fort at the top of the island. We also stopped for a bit of lunch here and some souvenir shopping. Word to the wise, prices were a bit better at the top of the island than down at the bottom at the big store.
 
Uh, yeah, that's the walk up, but it's well worth it
Half way up. Photos are a great excuse to take a break
Made it to the top! and enjoying the beautiful view
More of the view. Again, well worth the long ass walk
After about 30 minutes of running around the fort and the long climb up to the top of it, it was time to hop in the bus and pray we don’t die, again. Next stop an old church. I love these types of ruins and lurking around the graves. There is something almost mystical about reading about people who lived so long ago. The markers in Irish graveyards are always so beautiful that I end up taking way too many pictures, but it is my way of remembering these people by making something beautiful out of their final resting place.Aaaannnnnddddd back on the zippy bus!
Rainbow!!! We saw so many rainbows on our trip over here I started to think it was a sign. Then I remembered it was because of the high amount of precipitation they get here and took it as a sign to buy a rain coat.
The church

Looking through an old window of the church

A very old grave marker. Parts of the walls from the church were from the 8th century!
 
Another pretty pony I got to snuggle with while on the island. I never pass up an opportunity to snuggle a pony!
So on we went and he took us to a neat area of the island that looked different than any other part of the world I've visited. It was both beautiful and savage looking. Rather than dirt or grass the ground was mostly flat rocks weathers smooth by the rains and many years of storms.
This is the landscape. Flat weathered rocks, yet I found it to be gorgeous although a bit sad
Down the hill from this fantastic site was a beach where we could get down to the water and see the sea. There were tons of little tidal pools teaming with all different forms of life. For a scientist I was in heaven!
Rocky beach!
Sandy beach
Those are not sand dunes Matt is walking on, those are rocks that have been hollowed out by the sea
One of the tidal pools with lots of aquatic vegetation
Another tidal pool

After the beach, it was more zipping around the island picking up garbled bits of the tour from the guide and next thing I knew we were back at the dock.  The boat home would be there in an hour so not much more time for exploring and shopping which is why I recommend spending more than 1 day on the island.  If you have enough time, you can rent a bike and actually bike all over the island. Because it is fairly steep, I would only recommend doing this if you’re in shape and brave/quick enough to dodge crazy bus drivers.
 
Pretty house on the island
Thatched roof house on the island


A lovely cross in front of THE BAR. Yep, that was the name of the bar. It is just The Bar.
Cute drawing on the beach done by kids on the tour
The view right before we boarded the ferry

The ride back was much less scary so don't let my first impression of boat travel to the islands scare you off. On the way back not once did I check to make sure I had a flotation device under my chair. Vast improvement from the ride over. Just bring some Dramamine with you just in case or save your pennies and fly over.

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